In the months leading up to our journey to Nigeria, my husband and I would occasionally speak about some of our fears. Some things we realized were completely silly and we laughed at the fact that we entertained such thoughts. Other fears felt completely rational and wise to prepare for. One of the personal fears I had was how I would feel emotionally having my feet touch the ground in West Africa. I knew that going to West Africa was a return to my homeland, one that my ancestors did not leave voluntarily, as most of them were enslaved in order to promote Colonialism and create wealth for those who enslaved them. It is on their backs and due to their sacrificed humanity that we have the current society we live in. However, I often longed for connection to who they were before this great atrocity. I just could not accept slavery as the beginning to our story of being. Prior to our trip, I had been researching and investigating my ancestral history and genetic roots for a few years. I discovered that most of my genetic makeup was West African, with a great percentage rooted in what we now know as Nigeria. I also knew that both of my maternal grandparents were southern born, and direct descendants of enslaved Africans. I also had knowledge of my paternal ancestry and lineage which has roots in slavery, as the slaver and the enslaved. I began to read slave narratives and stories. For the period of almost a year. It is all I read. I was extremely emotional when doing my research and reading these stories and narratives. So my fear of overwhelming emotions on my visit to West Africa felt valid.
It was our last day in Nigeria that we visited the slave port in Badagry. We were on the final leg of a journey that grounded our faith, our beliefs and our practice in Ifa/Orisa Tradition. As we stood in the tiny rooms where only a few hundred years prior countless people were kept prisoner before being loaded onto ships that would carry them thousands of miles from everything they knew, I was surprised that I did not feel sadness. I took notice of the walls, the darkness, the lack of enough space to hold fifty people comfortably. I was preoccupied in my own thoughts of what the people who were brought to that place may have been thinking at the time. Why am I here? What have I done to deserve this? What is going to happen to me? There must have been countless prayers, tears, and reflections. Our tour guide was doing such a lovely job with explaining the history of the place to us, but I carry this history in my blood and my bones, so I was free to soak in my own thoughts. My husband was far more engaged in the details than I, which I am grateful for because later I would be able to learn some of the details of what we saw.
As we left the place where the holding cells were, and traveled by a small motor boat across the swampy waters to the island where the well of forgetfulness and for some of my ancestors, a cargo ship awaited. I again wondered if the emotions of sadness would rip through me, but they did not. It was a very hot day and it was a long walk to the shore but I was determined to take it. We rested at the well, and were given fresh coconut. We sat and we drank the water of the coconut and ate it’s flesh. I could smell the ocean in the air as we moved closer to the shore.
As we reached the shore, and watched the waves come rolling in, our tour guide explained to us that we had reached what would have been known to our ancestors as “The Point Of No Return”. If people had survived up to this point, if they drank from the well of forgetfulness, if they remained docile, they would cross the threshold of the large iron bars that provided a ramp that led to the belly of the cargo ship that awaited, docked in the ocean to carry them to what we now know as The Americas. I took that thought in, and still not a tear dropped from my face, not one emotion of sadness crept up in my spirit. I removed my shoes and drew closer to the water. I stood as the waves tickled my feet. I began to feel emotion. The emotions flooded me. It was not sadness I felt. I felt reprisal. My thoughts were clear. I was standing on the shore where I had stood many moons ago in shackles. I was told that my feet would never touch this earth again. I waited hundreds of years, I went through countless obstacles to find my way back home, and I am here. I have returned. Now I must remember who I am, who I was and live in my true power. My spirit was strengthened in a way that only I can understand. I have carried the warmth and clarity of that moment with me each day since.